I finished these 2/19/2009, and have already started on another pair, and a beanie with the leftover sock yarn. The photo is after machine-washing and drying. They are men's size 9-10, the most needed size. The legs have to be 12" long, to go up over their Army boots. I think they turned out quite nicely.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
First Pair of Soldier Socks Completed
I finished these 2/19/2009, and have already started on another pair, and a beanie with the leftover sock yarn. The photo is after machine-washing and drying. They are men's size 9-10, the most needed size. The legs have to be 12" long, to go up over their Army boots. I think they turned out quite nicely.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Tal's hat

I still have a lot of the Rowan Big Wool left, so I made "The Brangelina Hat" (photo top right is before felting, photo left is Tal modeling the felted hat). Since the pattern is designed for bulky yarn, even though I downsized it a bit, it still turned out to be an XL-size hat. So, I took it to work and gave it to a co-worker, Tal, who I thought it might fit, but it was too big for him. He had the bright idea of washing it in the washing machine to shrink it. I knew this would really felt it, but this yarn is good for felting, so maybe it would work. And it did! Of course, the brim shrank to almost nothing, but he likes it anyway, and I have seen him wearing it, so cool. So far I am 2-for-2 on these hats. I may make another hat from a pattern that is meant to be felted. The felting came out so well.
Russian Princess In Exile Hat

I needed a break from knitting with the fingering-weight SFS sock yarn.
It has been such a cold winter here in Maine. So, over Xmas vaction, I thought it would be good to knit some hats for friends. I made the "Russian Princess in Exile" hat for my friend Jone, who likes it and wears it on her walks. It was made with Rowan Big Wool which I bought on sale from Webs.
I have yet to knit a new hat for myself, which I sorely need. I am going around in my old Peace Fleece Tribal Mountain Hat, which I knit years ago. I still like it, but really. A knitter should have more than one knit hat to show off. Like most knitters and crafters, though, I always give away most of the stuff I make.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Socks For Soldiers


I joined Socks For Soldiers a couple of months ago, but have still not finished my first pair of Olive Drab socks. I am trying to finish them this week, since I am on vacation. The legs must be 12" long, and they seem to be taking forever, plus I am using the Magic Loop "Two at a Time" (TAAT) technique for the first time, so it has slowed me down a bit. Both socks must be knit concurrently from an official pattern. Only certain yarns may be used, which have been selected because they have regulation colors (hence the Olive Drab) to wear with their uniforms. Also, they must meet strict standards for wear and tear, and comfort. At this point, I have about 9" done with the legs, and they have passed the 2-liter "Coke Bottle Test".
I strongly encourage anyone who likes knitting socks to join this group. More knitters are always needed. Troops being withdrawn from Iraq are being sent to Afghanistan, and they will probably be there for awhile, since things are such a mess. They are doing a tough job, and I feel good about sending a bit of moral support. It is also a nice connection to the past, when knitters made socks for soldiers in earlier wars. I have made a New Year's Resolution to spend at least 20 minutes a day knitting for SFS in 2009.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
"Knitters Thumb" is no joke!

I have not been knitting much for the past few months, and I really miss it. I had to stop for awhile due to what turned out to be tenosynovitis in my thumb and wrist (a.k.a "knitter's thumb"), which I am about 99.99% sure was caused by too much knitting over the 2007 Xmas holidays and/or shortly thereafter, when I tried to knit a worsted-weight yarn into a pattern designed for sport-weight yarn. WARNING TO ALL KNITTING DUMMIES: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!!!
I tried to force the yarn into the correct gauge by using needles WAY too small for worsted (size 2 US), and the resulting strain on my already-overworked left thumb was too much for it. When it started hurting, I ignored it and kept going. I had to finish the project. This was so stupid. If something starts hurting like that, you should never ignore it. But, I did, and the pain then spread to my wrist, and has only recently started to get better. I had to go to the doctor, took Naproxen for 2 months, and wear a wrist brace at night, which I am still wearing. I only recently dared to start knitting again, about an hour at a time only. And when it starts hurting, I stop & put ice on it.
In my defense, I LOVE Scandinavian patterns, and this one DID call for worsted-weight yarn, but it was a 1950's classic pattern, "Scandinavian Snow Sets", and I think the term "worsted weight" must have meant something different then. Or, maybe their yarn was softer and would compress more easily. I was using Lamb's Pride (not bulky, I am not a total idiot), and there is no way you could get the gauge they were calling for with worsted weight, and enjoy knitting it. So, learn from my mistakes. IF THE YARN DOESN'T WANT TO FIT IN YOUR PATTERN, DON'T INJURE YOURSELF TRYING TO FORCE IT! No matter what the pattern says. Alter the pattern to fit your materials. Or, find another pattern. Your health is not worth it!!! I ended up having to change the pattern anyway, because the knitted fabric was too dense. All I had to do was remove the borders along the sides, and be a bit creative. The resulting slipper socks came out very nicely, but not worth all the pain I have had over the last few months when I forget and pick up an object at the wrong angle with my left hand! A true knitting dummy, this blog is aptly named.
The Orthopedic M.D., who finally cured my condition with a shot of cortisone, said he doubted it could have been caused solely by knitting, but I'm still pretty sure that's how it started.
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Knitting honor bages

I am an avid listener of the knitting podcast "Cast On", and this summer's theme has been "Camping for Adults." You can earn beads for various accomplishments, or
honor badges. I definitely qualify for the "MacGyver Level 1" badge. I once made a set of sock needles from a dowel, and I still use them. I'm pretty sure that I have used paper clips for stitch holders, too.
I encourage others to check the list of badges, it is a fun read, plus you will probably qualify for something to display proudly on your own blog or web page. Also, if you have not yet discovered the wonderful world of knitting podcasts, I pity you. Cast-on is only one of them, but it's a good start. Check it out, you don't need an iPod to listen, just an Internet connection and speakers, and it's free.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Elizabeth Zimmerman Pie Are Square Shawl: Sawtooth Border
I am finishing up the "Pie Are Square" Shawl, from the fabulous Elizabeth Zimmerman book, Knitting Around. When I got to the border, I had trouble with the instructions, and could not find any help on the Internet, so I thought I would post my solution. I wanted to write it all down while I still remember How I Did It.
I did the "sawtooth" border, which since my shawl is green, looks kind of like dragon scales. It is a nice border, if you are using worsted-weight yarn. I tried the lace border also, but it didn't look good in this weight. Might do that one next time, in a lace-weight or sport-weight.
I was confused by the book's instructions, when it came time to do the "down side" of the sawtooth. I guess I am an "intermediate" knitter, as I have knit 3 or 4 sweaters, a few pairs of socks, a couple baby blankets, but no lace yet. I think the instructions were written for a more experienced knitter, but if you follow my "dummy" instructions, even a beginner should be able to do it. You will need 2 point-protectors, and two double-pointed needles in the same size as the ones you are using for knitting your shawl. I knitted my shawl on a large circular needle, then when I was ready to knit the border, put point-protectors on the ends, to stop the existing stitches from slipping off while I was knitting the border. I used the circular as a stitch-holder only from that point on, knitting the border on the 2 double-pointed (DP) needles. If you don't have any DP needles in the size you normally knit with, I recommend getting them anyway. DP needles are useful to have, for circular knitting. I like circular knitting (Lopi sweaters, and socks) because I hate sewing seams, and for multicolor knitting it is MUCH easier than flat knitting. You can also knit flat with circular and DP needles, as I have used them here, so they are quite versatile.
The sawtooth has an "up" side and a "down" side. I started with right side facing, and kept some little stitch markers (you could use safety pins) in the front of the work, just to avoid getting confused which side was which, since I knit in garter stitch and both sides look very similar.
Slipped stitches are slipped Knitwise unless otherwise stated. K=knit, SL=slip stitch from one needle to the other without knitting/purling, PSSO=pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit.
TO START:
1. Using DP needle as right needle and circular needle as left needle, K2, SL1, K1, PSSO, K8.
2. Put point protector on end of circular needle. You will now knit the "Up" side of the sawtooth, using the 2 DP needles only. Just ignore what is on the circular needle for now.
KNITTING THE "UP" SIDE OF THE SAWTOOTH:
1. turn
2. SL2 purlwise, bring yarn to back, Knit until you only have 3 sts on the left-hand needle, bring yarn to front, SL3 purlwise.
3. turn
4. K2, SL1, K1, PSSO, knit to the end of the row.
Repeat steps 1-4 until you only have 5 stitches left. DO NOT TURN*.
Repeat step 4 two more times. You will now have only 3 stitches remaining.
*This is an I-cord border, and in I-cord you just keep knitting and do not turn. It makes a sort of tube. You might want to try knitting some I-cord just to get the concept, before you attempt this. It is more complicated than I-cord alone, because of the shaping for the "up" and "down" sides of the sawtooth.
KNITTING THE "DOWN" SIDE OF THE SAWTOOTH:
Looking at what you have done, you now can see that you have formed a triangular shape, with your 3 stitches on the needle at the tip of the triangle. The UP side is done, but the DOWN side still needs to have the I-Cord edging added.
Use the free DP needle to pick up (BUT DO NOT KNIT YET) 8 stitches along the down side of the triangle.** This needle is now your LEFT needle. Slip the 3 stitches off the RIGHT needle onto the LEFT needle. Note, there is no turning, as this is I-Cord.
1. K2, SL1, K1, PSSO. Do NOT turn. You now have 3 stitches on the right-hand needle.
2. Transfer the 3 stitches from the right-hand needle to the left.
Repeat steps 1-2 until you only have 3 stitches left.
You have now completed one sawtooth. Take the point-protector off the circular needle, knit 8 stitches from it, then put the point protector back on. Go back to instructions for "UP" side of sawtooth.
**You might want to do a practice swatch to help decide which 8 stitches to pick up. It isn't obvious. I don't think it really matters if you choose stitches at the very outer edge or the next stitch in, as long as you are consistent which ones you pick up each time. I did not pick up the very outermost edge, I did the next stitch in.
I did the "sawtooth" border, which since my shawl is green, looks kind of like dragon scales. It is a nice border, if you are using worsted-weight yarn. I tried the lace border also, but it didn't look good in this weight. Might do that one next time, in a lace-weight or sport-weight.
I was confused by the book's instructions, when it came time to do the "down side" of the sawtooth. I guess I am an "intermediate" knitter, as I have knit 3 or 4 sweaters, a few pairs of socks, a couple baby blankets, but no lace yet. I think the instructions were written for a more experienced knitter, but if you follow my "dummy" instructions, even a beginner should be able to do it. You will need 2 point-protectors, and two double-pointed needles in the same size as the ones you are using for knitting your shawl. I knitted my shawl on a large circular needle, then when I was ready to knit the border, put point-protectors on the ends, to stop the existing stitches from slipping off while I was knitting the border. I used the circular as a stitch-holder only from that point on, knitting the border on the 2 double-pointed (DP) needles. If you don't have any DP needles in the size you normally knit with, I recommend getting them anyway. DP needles are useful to have, for circular knitting. I like circular knitting (Lopi sweaters, and socks) because I hate sewing seams, and for multicolor knitting it is MUCH easier than flat knitting. You can also knit flat with circular and DP needles, as I have used them here, so they are quite versatile.
The sawtooth has an "up" side and a "down" side. I started with right side facing, and kept some little stitch markers (you could use safety pins) in the front of the work, just to avoid getting confused which side was which, since I knit in garter stitch and both sides look very similar.
Slipped stitches are slipped Knitwise unless otherwise stated. K=knit, SL=slip stitch from one needle to the other without knitting/purling, PSSO=pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit.
TO START:
1. Using DP needle as right needle and circular needle as left needle, K2, SL1, K1, PSSO, K8.
2. Put point protector on end of circular needle. You will now knit the "Up" side of the sawtooth, using the 2 DP needles only. Just ignore what is on the circular needle for now.
KNITTING THE "UP" SIDE OF THE SAWTOOTH:
1. turn
2. SL2 purlwise, bring yarn to back, Knit until you only have 3 sts on the left-hand needle, bring yarn to front, SL3 purlwise.
3. turn
4. K2, SL1, K1, PSSO, knit to the end of the row.
Repeat steps 1-4 until you only have 5 stitches left. DO NOT TURN*.
Repeat step 4 two more times. You will now have only 3 stitches remaining.
*This is an I-cord border, and in I-cord you just keep knitting and do not turn. It makes a sort of tube. You might want to try knitting some I-cord just to get the concept, before you attempt this. It is more complicated than I-cord alone, because of the shaping for the "up" and "down" sides of the sawtooth.
KNITTING THE "DOWN" SIDE OF THE SAWTOOTH:
Looking at what you have done, you now can see that you have formed a triangular shape, with your 3 stitches on the needle at the tip of the triangle. The UP side is done, but the DOWN side still needs to have the I-Cord edging added.
Use the free DP needle to pick up (BUT DO NOT KNIT YET) 8 stitches along the down side of the triangle.** This needle is now your LEFT needle. Slip the 3 stitches off the RIGHT needle onto the LEFT needle. Note, there is no turning, as this is I-Cord.
1. K2, SL1, K1, PSSO. Do NOT turn. You now have 3 stitches on the right-hand needle.
2. Transfer the 3 stitches from the right-hand needle to the left.
Repeat steps 1-2 until you only have 3 stitches left.
You have now completed one sawtooth. Take the point-protector off the circular needle, knit 8 stitches from it, then put the point protector back on. Go back to instructions for "UP" side of sawtooth.
**You might want to do a practice swatch to help decide which 8 stitches to pick up. It isn't obvious. I don't think it really matters if you choose stitches at the very outer edge or the next stitch in, as long as you are consistent which ones you pick up each time. I did not pick up the very outermost edge, I did the next stitch in.
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